After two rounds of play testing, I have uncovered a total of 99 cards with issues (out of 226). These range from incorrect information to simply being too dark to read easily. I've begun the process of correcting these issues (ambitious, I know, since there are likely to be more issues discovered as play tests continue. However, I think of this as a quality of life update to ensure further play testing isn't impeded by known issues).
My first step in the process is to get into the Photoshop files and make any corrections there as a new layer, so that I can retain a record of the original (just in case). While I was doing this I also recognized another big issue with the project files: I had cards combined in larger archive files and some of the cards had never been archived. Although it is a little messier on the file side of things, I decided to break out every individual card to its own file, so that I will be able to easily confirm a backup exists and jump directly to the necessary card by just searching for the name. Separating out all of these individual files was a large project in and of itself and required a little over a week to accomplish. With that done, I moved into the actual corrections.
Once I had finished all the corrections and updates, I output all of the files to 8.5"x11" print sheet .pdf files. Since I use the poker card dimensions, I can fit 9 cards per sheet. I took my paper to Staples and had them print out the sheets. I do not own a color printer, so Staples is very convenient to use. Also, given the costs of printers and ink nowadays, I think owning your own printer is a bit of a niche and not necessarily cost effective. I am not certain I will be continuing with making color prints once this project is finished, either. Staples has a very good price on prints. It also helps to have a connection with one of the salespeople, so that you can easily get your prints done on the smooth or textured side as needed (if working with textured paper, which I am). I tend to make informational cards out of smooth-smooth, while actual playing cards are exclusively smooth-textured.
Having the prints in-hand, I returned home to my light table (a gift from my amazing wife) to "book" the sheets. This is the simple process of lining up the fronts and backs, then attaching them at the edge with tape so that they will stay lined up. I choose to book first and then glue so that I am not trying to line up sheets with tacky glue in the mix (I am not quite that skillful).
I offset the print sheet slightly as well to accommodate the booking process. Once everything is lined up, I put down some paper and spray with Super77 to bond the front to the back.
Then I use a rolling pin (after placing a protective throw-away sheet on the front and back) to roll out any air bubbles and ensure the bond is as tight as possible.
After I've rolled out the whole sheet, I put it in a makeshift glue press for 24 hours. It's just a stack of books to add weight to the paper while the bond cures.
The entire technique is based pretty closely on the step-by-step guide from Nick Hayes on Board Game Geek. I find the cards fairly closely replicate the standard Bicycle card in feel and strength. However, they are noticeably thicker, which is a tradeoff I am willing to accept.
My first step in the process is to get into the Photoshop files and make any corrections there as a new layer, so that I can retain a record of the original (just in case). While I was doing this I also recognized another big issue with the project files: I had cards combined in larger archive files and some of the cards had never been archived. Although it is a little messier on the file side of things, I decided to break out every individual card to its own file, so that I will be able to easily confirm a backup exists and jump directly to the necessary card by just searching for the name. Separating out all of these individual files was a large project in and of itself and required a little over a week to accomplish. With that done, I moved into the actual corrections.
Once I had finished all the corrections and updates, I output all of the files to 8.5"x11" print sheet .pdf files. Since I use the poker card dimensions, I can fit 9 cards per sheet. I took my paper to Staples and had them print out the sheets. I do not own a color printer, so Staples is very convenient to use. Also, given the costs of printers and ink nowadays, I think owning your own printer is a bit of a niche and not necessarily cost effective. I am not certain I will be continuing with making color prints once this project is finished, either. Staples has a very good price on prints. It also helps to have a connection with one of the salespeople, so that you can easily get your prints done on the smooth or textured side as needed (if working with textured paper, which I am). I tend to make informational cards out of smooth-smooth, while actual playing cards are exclusively smooth-textured.
Having the prints in-hand, I returned home to my light table (a gift from my amazing wife) to "book" the sheets. This is the simple process of lining up the fronts and backs, then attaching them at the edge with tape so that they will stay lined up. I choose to book first and then glue so that I am not trying to line up sheets with tacky glue in the mix (I am not quite that skillful).
I offset the print sheet slightly as well to accommodate the booking process. Once everything is lined up, I put down some paper and spray with Super77 to bond the front to the back.
Then I use a rolling pin (after placing a protective throw-away sheet on the front and back) to roll out any air bubbles and ensure the bond is as tight as possible.
After I've rolled out the whole sheet, I put it in a makeshift glue press for 24 hours. It's just a stack of books to add weight to the paper while the bond cures.
The entire technique is based pretty closely on the step-by-step guide from Nick Hayes on Board Game Geek. I find the cards fairly closely replicate the standard Bicycle card in feel and strength. However, they are noticeably thicker, which is a tradeoff I am willing to accept.
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